Frequently Asked Questions

  1. Do not use WD40 to oil your trains. WD40 will deteriorate plastics. WD40 is primarily a solvent/cleaner and only a temporary lubricant. Buy a "plastic compatible" train oil from your local hobby store. LaBelle is one common brand name.
  2. Do not lubricate train gears with automotive lubricants which are too thick for toy trains. Again, buy a "plastic compatible" train lubricant from your local hobby store.
  3. Have your antique train motors and moving parts professionally degreased. This removes old lubricant which are paraffin based. Many of the antique trains I serviece no longer have lubrication, just wax which causes the motor to run very hot.
  4. Do not use steel wool to remove rust from old track. If your trains have magnetic traction, they will attract the steel wool into the train motor & gears, causing damage. Buy a "track eraser" from your local hobby storeto remove light rust. Buy new track from your local hobby store if the track has heavy rust.
  5. Do not store trains in plastic bubble wrap or any plastic. Plastic will hold moisture and breed mold and mildew. Store your trains in cardboard boxes so they can breathe.
  6. Many antique train parts, screws, & rivets can be found as original or reproduction to match the original. Avoid a homemade modification which could ruin the collectible value of your train. I have many sources around the country to search for parts.
  7. Collectible value depends on many factors such as do your trains work, rarity, condition, do you have original boxes, and the current demand by the buying public. Trains can not be valued over the phone.
  8. Do not clean your antique trains. Your trains should be professionally cleaned to protect the paints, metals, and plastic. Antique paints are not like new paint tehnology. Water and detergents can permanently damage many antique olors, especially red. Knowing how to polish old paints also takes lots of experience.
  9. I fix most everything. Call me if you have a specific question.